Delhi Adventures

We spent too few days in Delhi to do it justice ... but I hope to return. Delhi, the capital of India, is now its largest city and is also one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. Traffic in Delhi made Chennai look quite provincial - the roads are so much wider and busier. We found evidence of their danger immediately as we made our way from the airport, when our car almost ran over a dead body lying prostrate in the middle of the road. It was shocking to me that the crowd at the side made no attempt to avert or warn the approaching vehicles. Brakes were hastily applied as cars edged their way around the man.

Delhi is a city of extreme contrasts from the wide pleasant avenues (many designed by Edwin Lutyens) of the areas which house members of government and foreign embassies to the crowded streets of the busy and traditional town that is Old Delhi. Fine examples of new architecture and development sits alongside the decay that is found by the side of almost every street.

When we arrived the temperature was a welcoming 30 deg. C. following some days of rain but it didn't take long to reach a steamy 40 once again. This limited sightseeing making it exhausting. However, armed with an umbrella for shade I explored the ruins of Qutub Minar which date from 1193. The main feature of this is a dramatic 72 metre high tower. whose original purpose is unknown. Speculation is it might have been a minaret or a watch tower. The red sandstone is beautifully and intricately carved with verses from the Qu'ran. Some of the work reminded me of the work of Escher.

The Mughal architecture of Humayun's Tomb, started in 1562, is said to have inspired the Taj Mahal. In the same grounds lie the smaller, but charming, Isa Khan tomb and mosque.



The grounds are peaceful and filled with birds and chipmunks. To my pleasure and astonishment, I was able to get near to one of the black kites which soar majestically in the Indian skies. I have been trying to get a decent shot of these since I arrived.

There was a downside to Delhi - our tummies suffered as we succumbed to the notorious Delhi belly. On our way to Agra, going through security in Delhi airport, there was a delay ... our bags, partly through, reversed a little into the scanning machine. Security officials gathered around reaching down to rotate the rollers as if there was a problem .... people muttered, asking what was holding things up. The next day, I discovered the loss of a great deal of money and some chequebooks out of a wallet tucked away in my handbag. The bag had been with me night and day but as it went through security it was out of my sight temporarily when it was supposed to be in the machine. There is no absolute proof but if I were to travel through the airport again, or if anyone I knew were to do that, I would think of carrying any money on the person in a pocket ... or do, as I have since heard, the Indians do ... spread the money around a number of locations so that if some disappears some will be left.

Kumarakom

It took rather a while but, finally, I visited another part of India and spent a few days in Kerala on the East Coast.
Leaving the bustle of Cochin (Kochi) behind, we drove through smaller and smaller villages until the road became rough and bumpy and we arrived at Kumarakom.

Aside from the wonderfully pleasant hotel, we were enchanted by the wetlands of Lake Vembanad (the longest lake in India) and the beauty of the backwaters.

It was interesting to see the importance of the waters to the lives of the people. The river became an extension of the kitchen, with dishes washed there; a larder as both adults and children fished; a bathroom as the river was used for hairwashing, bathing and tooth-brushing. Trees hung with fruits. It seemed a lush and bounteous area with plenty for animals and humans alike.
Romantic kettuvallams (houseboats), constructed in the traditional and ancient way with wood and coir, make their leisurely way across the water. As we sailed through the backwater channels, we saw the boats being constructed. It was amusing to see that, in one instance, there was a rather modern addition of solar panels which didn't quite fit the image but were no doubt very practical!

The area was alive with birds. I have never seen so may cormorants and was thrilled to see Brahminy Kites, kingfishers and a variety of herons and egrets at such close quarters. More exotic, to my eyes, was the Black-hooded Oriole - resplendent in yellow and black. Our ears were treated to the sound of songbirds such as the oriental magpie robin. A walk through the bird sanctuary gave us glimpses of cormorant nestlings and egret chicks.


In the evenings, we watched the sun go down out on the lake to the haunting strains of Indian music played on flute and drums. Later still, we were treated to displays of classical Indian dance and Abhinaya, which uses dance, music, singing and mime, to tell a story. The dancer used every muscle he had with very expressive and extravagant facial expressions.

"I've known rivers:

I've known rivers ancient as the world and older than the
flow of human blood in human veins.

My soul has grown deep like the rivers.

I bathed in the Euphrates when dawns were young.
I built my hut near the Congo and it lulled me to sleep.
I looked upon the Nile and raised the pyramids above it.
I heard the singing of the Mississippi when Abe Lincoln
went down to New Orleans, and I've seen its muddy
bosom turn all golden in the sunset.

I've known rivers:
Ancient, dusky rivers.

My soul has grown deep like the rivers."

~ Langston Hughes, 1902-1967 ~